Portable Mind: A sort of travel guide

adventures in wine tasting

Vineyards at Chateau de Vie

The aroma of fresh coffee woke me sometime around 8:30 on Sunday morning. It had been placed outside our door on a tray, fully serviced with the proper accoutrements.  The temptation to sleep in was strong, but I'd read so much about the fantastic breakfasts prepared by Phillip that we forced ourselves awake, and joined the other guests in the dining room. Cranberry corn muffins and eggs benedict with an orange hollandaise sauce were on the menu that morning.

There were eight of us at the table. A mother and daughter from the South, and two couples. I was eager to ask everyone for wine tasting recommendations, but no one wanted to get a conversation going. A B&B risk I'd forgotten about - awkward silence at the communal table.

Peter, who'd served breakfast that morning, had suggested several places; and so we began in Sonoma at Ledson. It is family -run winery housed in a 16,000 square foot faux-French Normandy "castle" with a gorgeous view, although compared to rustic Charbay, it felt like a wedding hall. Nonetheless, it was lovely and the wines were outstanding. Of note, the 2004 Reserve Redwood Valley Old Vine Zinfandel and an exquisite Reserve Pinot Noir that I couldn't buy, because it was a Future release. I seriously thought about joining their wine club so I could purchase it, and am still thinking about it. Ledson wines are only available for purchase at the winery, a very select group of wine shops and restaurants, or via the online store.

From there we stopped in at Kunde, which was forgettable; then Mayo Family Winery in Glen Ellen. We had to try the "Adventure Tasting", of course, which featured 12 wines. I have since decided that 12 wines in one tasting is too many to process. Thankfully I had my notebook, and jotted down things like " '05 Page/Nord Syrah, lucious plum, delectable, tastes like dessert", and  "the Sangiovese... walking through the vineyard on a late summer afternoon"... my notes became more colorful with each glass.

The 2002 Syrah we tasted at Merryvale was glass number 25. I love Merryvale reds, particularly the Cabs, so it's always a stop for me when I am in Napa. It was the end of the day, and our server had lost track of which tasting we had ordered (we'd kind of lost track as well), so we ended up tasting 6 wines in total, including the pricey "Profile" flight and a fantastic Cabernet 2004 Reserve.

The only wine we purchased that day, oddly enough, was the Libertine from Mayo. My notes about LIbertine read: "Libertine, an easy evening wine". Not so much, it turns out.  The wine is indeed true to it's name - and probably the reason we ended up outside in the hot tub, in the middle of the vineyards, at midnight.

Another Perfect Weekend

Napa afternoon

A woman in the elevator at Hotel Rex in San Francisco told Dan that she hadn't slept during her entire stay. It seemed as though she was implying that there was a strange history to the hotel - ghosts, perhaps? An idea I brushed off until after I'd had two restless nights, and then had to agree - as nice as the hotel is, perhaps there really is something strange going on. Regardless, it was the beginning of another perfect weekend in California

Every time I go to San Francisco, I have a desire to linger. It is a result of being on the west coast in a city where being outdoors is part of the everyday experience, and culinary pleasures are found in every neighborhood. This time, I created an itinerary that would take us to Napa and Sonoma for the weekend which, after a few busy days and sleepless nights, was a much needed break. But before we left, we made sure to hit a few key spots - drinks at the Big Four, dinner at Chouquet's, and brunch at Beach Chalet for a Ramos Fizz and some fresh Pacific air.

I'd sifted through Trip Advisor before we left for California, and chosen a small but highly recommended inn called Chateau de Vie in Calistoga, a small town at the northern end of Napa. CDV, as it's called, is known for flawless customer service and incredible food provided by hosts Peter and Phillip - and the reviews are exactly right. The inn had a calming effect that we didn't even know we wanted until we arrived. Warmly greeted by Phillip, we got our room key, dropped our bags and headed off to our first wine tasting, at Domaine Charbay in St Helena.

Up winding Spring Mountain road, Charbay is located in an area reminiscent of the way things were back in the 70's, when the California wine scene was starting to bloom (I was told, and it's easy to imagine). And, that's exactly when the winery/distillery - "the still on the hill", as it was described to us - was founded. Charbay is owned and operated by the Karakasevic family, who have been making wine and spirits since 1750. Based on our afternoon tasting, they clearly know what they're doing. I had originally chosen Charbay because I wanted to taste their whiskey, which a friend of mine raved about - but, our timing was off and they were doing wine tastings that Saturday. It did not disappoint. Lara Karakasevic was our hostess, and she sat with us for over an hour, telling us about her father Miles, their family history, and stories about the more interesting visitors they receive at Charbay. Miles was working in the lab next door during our tasting, and I was secretly hoping he would join us because he'd just returned from Mexico where he had been making tequila - I knew there were probably some good stories there. (no such luck)

It was late afternoon when we wrapped up, and we took with us a Chardonnay dessert wine that Lara served over ice, but can also be served in a brandy snifter; and a really delicious Port, which is unlike any other I've tasted.

Charbay is a refreshing departure from the stripmall-esque scene that Napa's Highway 29 can resemble on a Saturday afternoon. Still, beginning a wine tasting journey there sets the bar fairly high. A sense of adventure from that point forward, is required.

Room 310

TED postscript, the important details of where I stayed: The Spindrift Inn, located right in the heart of Cannery Row. I wasn't sure what to expect, considering Steinbeck's pictorial description ~
Cannery Row in Monterey in California is a poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a habit, a nostalgia, a dream. Cannery Row is the gathered and scattered, tin and iron and rust and splintered wood, chipped pavement and weedy lots and junk heaps, sardine canneries of corrugated iron, honky tonks, restaurants and whore houses, and little crowded groceries, and laboratories and flophouses.
Of course, that was written in 1945 so things have changed as far as I could tell, save for the quality of light and me feeling like the gathered and scattered...
Each room at the Spindrift has a fireplace and is located either on the street side or on the water. The hotel feels as though you are staying in a warm and comfortable home, and the service was personal and attentive. My rate was $149 per night, the hotel has WiFi at $9.95/day, valet parking, Aveda amenities and spa services are available. TED aside, it was a great place to escape to and I will definitely go back.

Lucky You

I am a lucky girl. I have been hearing this alot over the last few weeks, mainly because I was able to participate in the experience that is TED (and because I've been in California).

I eased myself into 2007 TED slowly, starting with a night in Los Angeles before heading up to San Francisco and Monterey. I was visited by an old friend who picked me up and drove me, very non-L.A. style in his pick up truck, to Silver Lake where we reminisced over really good fries at Fred 62. I hear the food is great (but that's not why I was there so I can't confirm) and the service is... almost self-serve, actually; but in a place like Fred 62 it doesn't matter. It's all about the intimate conversations you'll have in the dimly-lit, noirish atmosphere.

For $49 I jetted up to San Francisco the next afternoon and spent the evening with a friend at Chez Panisse. We had an incredible bottle of Chardonnay that I must recommend - Ici/La- Bas. The first sip bursts into your mouth, a bit shocking and too strong, it seems, for a California chardonnay; but then it breathes and mellows beautifully. A more eloquent description... A beautiful nose of ripe, minerally fruit and toasty oak (like roasted nuts) gets your attention. Then the rich and texturally complex flavors are bold but so well rounded and balanced that you take another sip just to see what you missed the first time around ~ from Dennis Schaefer

The next morning I headed to TED. This year's conference seems to have generated more attention than  ever, and even Hollywood has taken a stronger interest... on the list this year were Meg Ryan (a TED regular), Forrest Whitaker, Cameron Diaz, John Cusack, and Daphne Zuniga, to name a few (so funny they were at the same conference).

The theme was "Icons, Mavericks and Geniuses" but the common denominators were the war in Iraq, Africa and AIDS. My list of who inspired and motivated me, and said things that I should not forget is extensive, but here are a few...
Economist Emily Oster, who spoke about AIDS. It's interesting to listen to an economist speak about the disease, rather than a healthcare professional or a politician. Her points were simple - if we look at what else is happening to people with the disease and the area around them (Sub-saharan Africa vs. US, for example) and what other diseases they are contracting yet go untreated (like STDs), we might cure those adjacent illnesses first; thereby creating an environment where people care about their health, who will eventually take steps to keep themselves healthy and not get the AIDS virus.

James Nachtwey and Deborah Scranton, news photographer and filmmaker respectively, went at war from behind the scenes. The two presentations were painfully moving, because it's difficult to look at images from the war (any war) and acknowledge what is really happening... but as Deborah Scranton said, "we must talk about it". Both became emotional when speaking about what they had experienced. James Nacthwey, who displayed beautiful images of horrific events made a verbal wish that those in attendance would help him to create a distribution outlet for his photographs so they could reach - and thereby educate - a wider audience. Deborah Scranton's film "The War Tapes" tells the Iraq story from the 'inside-out' and should be seen by everyone. Period.

There is a TED blog that details much of what happened during the 3 days in Monterey and eventually videos from the conference will be posted online, called "Ted Talks". These videos are worth watching, to take your brain elsewhere for a few minutes. I have heard many people say that TED has changed their life, and I agree. I've tried to pinpoint why... because the truth is, there is brilliance around us all the time. We can read about great ideas or watch them happen right in front of us, if we're looking. And maybe that's it - TED provides the time and space to look... to think about what is around you and what you can do with the time you have. It is a place where you are surrounded by raw passion and conviction, which forces you to ask yourself 'what am I doing with my life?' and then motivates you to really answer that question.

Good Morning L.A.

Breakfast this morning at the stylish Maison 140 in Beverly Hills. I chose this hotel because I am obsessed with interior designer Kelly Wearstler, and this is one of her projects. The hotel has a bit of wear but not enough to affect the guest experience. The service is outstanding but unobtrusive... as is the entire hotel vibe.  Intimate and dark, the hallways are painted black and the tiny Bar Noir is done in a sexy black and red. I imagine this is the sort of place people go to have affairs, which might explain why the beds are super comfortable...

Other important notes: Amenities are from Molton Brown and you can steal free WiFi from the Peninsula, which is right across the street. Maison 140 also provides WiFi for $10.95 per day. Hotel rates: $219+.

Like A Virgin

For a period of time, I lived in Los Angeles and would often jet north to the bay area and surrounding wine country for the weekend. Somehow I never made it to Berkeley, which seems odd considering it's a common destination for many people, especially Californians. Over the years, Berkeley had become something of a legend in my mind... an Oz-like city where an unusually high percentage of geniuses coexist peacefully with freethinkers, zealous activists and educated foodies. It is, after all, the place where many claim the American food movement began and so it seemed appropriate that my first taste of Berkeley should start with dinner at Chez Panisse.

Food- fresh and locally produced - is intrinsic to Berkeley culture. I'd heard rumblings about it from friends and family who'd been there, inspired by the style in which food is grown and prepared. I finally understood what they were excited about when I got out of the car in the middle of the 'gourmet ghetto' and found myself swathed in sweet garlic and rosemary-scented air harmonized by the tang of smoldering wood brick ovens from surrounding restaurants. A fresh produce market was in full swing on a closed down block, the sidewalks were alive with people and a live jazz band, poised in the corner of an open-air pizza restaurant, provided the soundtrack. I felt like I had walked into the middle of a party.

We were seduced into the Cheeseboard Collective, an egalitarian worker-owned shop (of course!) with a copious amount of cheese that each member of the collective knows more about than you could ever hope to, or probably ever want to. The Collective members are akin to sommeliers, so we "tasted" sharp manchego, a dreamy brie, something Portuguese that was brought to us when we abstractly described what we were looking for - and it was perfect. A preliminary glass of wine was in order before dinner so we stopped into the Taste Wine Bar a spatial, brick-walled bistro with a DIY tasting counter. I tried a Viognier from Preston Vineyards, an organic family farm rooted in the Dry Creek Valley of Sonoma County. Viognier has been described as Chardonnay's 'sexy sister' and the Preston was a crisp, textured, exotic white - really fantastic.

Finally ready to settle into a meal, we sat upstairs at Chez Panisse, unable to commit to the prix fixe menu featured downstairs. From first course to last, the food was original and fresh, the combination of flavors unexpected - a sharp, piquant red pepper soup; pizza with nettles (I didn't know what they were, either) and pecorino - an earthy, smoky taste unlike anything I've ever had. When we arrived the crowd was what I'd imagined - salt-and-peppered Boomers in flowy California Casual and Birkenstocks (with socks - quelle horreur!), but as the evening wore on the crowd got younger and hipper. The restaurant vibe is lively and very neighborhood, so comfortable that our dinner lasted 3 hours. Berkeley seems to be more a state of mind than anything else, an approach to life that echoes that of Southern Europe. After our evening, it's hard to return to life as normal. It was exactly how a first time experience should be - one that raises the bar.

Photo from Flickr

How to have a perfect weekend

Friday fly to San Francisco, check into the Clift hotel. Have dinner at Asia de Cuba, followed by drinks at The Matrix on Fillmore where you'll hear pick-up lines you've never heard before, like "are you part of the Swedish convention in town?" or "Hey ladies, do you know what the proper etiquette is when you're at a public jacuzzi?" (um...). Share a taxi with Liam, owner of a wine bar called S.N.O.B and get invited to his establishment for an after hours tasting of boutique California wines. Stumble down the street hours later for last call at an Irish pub, the name of which doesn't even matter... then get lucky and ride back to the hotel with a cabdriver who has Van Halen (DLR version) blasting from the stereo, the perfect complement to your besotted state.

Saturday Despite the desire to sleep, the weekend is short so it's Starbucks for double shots at 9, shopping and a late breakfast at Chouquet's on Fillmore at 10. Head up to Napa as the temperature drops and it begins to rain, to soothe your soul with a cabernet tasting at Clos Pegase followed by a special reserve tasting at Sterling. Clear your head by checking into the incredible Carneros Inn where the air is crisp and scented with eucalyptus and mesquite smoke, in a lush setting of grape vines, apple orchards and scenic Napa farmland. Each room is a private bungalow with fireplaces, heated floor tiles, an outdoor shower and amenities by Red Flower. Doesn't get any better than that.

Sunday Nurse the port wine hangover at the Inn's quaint Boon Fly Cafe for breakfast. After your outdoor shower - an unbelievable experience - head over to Artesa, a winery-cum-art gallery that has the most "beautiful view in Napa" and take an hour (or 3) to relax on the outdoor patio. After a complete tasting and final shopping spree in the winery store, resolve yourself to finishing up the weekend in style by heading back to the city to check in to the Four Seasons San Francisco. Dine at Luella in Russian Hill, then take a stroll down to Polk street where there are a number of neighborhood bars to grab a final nightcap before crashing out under the down comforter and Frette linens back at the hotel. La fin parfaite.

pics: Fri: The Clift, room 1532 / Sat: Carneros Inn, view from the pool / Sun: Laura, thrilled to be at Artesa

Today...

was perfect.

Half Moon Bay, CA. 3:45pm PST

Living la vida local

Oh, I have seen way too many airports this month.

The trouble with traveling for business is that it's often difficult to squeeze in time for a little adventure, like spending the evening at a local hotspot with some new friends or taking an hour or two to shop for things you can't buy at home. The trick is to know where to go before you go, of course. While the research may seem vacuous and socially-oriented, i.e. reading fashion magazines, watching lots of entertainment television and the Style network, to which I am hopelessly addicted - I like to think of it as important - especially when meetings have ended and co-workers and clients are trying to figure out where to go. And really, after a long day of meetings who wants to have dinner at another chain restaurant or turn in at 7pm?

So while I was in LA recently, I indulged in the following places...

Hollywood Roosevelt, home of the Tropicana Bar and where Kirsten makes out with Jake by the pool. A Hollywood landmark hotel redone, the new version is really stunning and worth dealing with the annoying ‘who are you’/ ‘are you on the list’? questions as long as you don't take it seriously. It’s a very fun, sexy place and you never know whom you will run into. Room rates are $250 and up - and if you’re thinking like I did that having a room key gives you an all access pass to everything (theoretically increasing your chances for a celebrity encounter), forget it – management’s priority is their celebrity clientele and they will keep you out of private parties, the pool, or the bar no matter how much you’re paying for a room. But you can always try.

To satisfy your inner wannabe, the Four Seasons Beverly Hills has always been and still is perfect. It is central to everything and you will trip over celebrities while you lounge by the pool or pose at the bar. Here a room key does get you everywhere and for the same price as Roosevelt, it’s much more luxurious and makes you feel like you should be there, alongside your contemporaries J Lo or Glenn Close. When to go? Academy Award season, of course.

To feel like a local, head for The Grove. LA’s newest shopping extravaganza is a faux town square with lovely walkways and timed fountains that spout water in artistic fashion (there’s just something just so Vegas about it all) populated by stores like The Gap and Banana Republic. It is nicely done and very popular. The best part about the Grove is that it is adjacent to the Farmers Market, an open-air market that is a staple for LA natives. At the Farmers Market you can stroll and shop for gourmet fresh products or settle into one of the quaint restaurants like Monsieur Marcel for a glass of wine and plat des fromages.

If that business meeting was more stressful than successful, you can work off some tension at the Universal Studios theme park. No, seriously. It’s easy to get to, there are a variety of things to keep your inner child occupied and your mind diverted. The bonus? It's very easy to "get lost" in the massive Universal back lot and find yourself over on Wisteria Lane where, who knows? you might get a glimpse of a “Desperate Housewives” shoot in progress.